In March of 2009 I was invited to attend an Agent Conference in Tahiti and I jumped at the chance to return to this idyllic island destination. Tahiti has been my dream destination since I was a teen and I had not been back since 2004. I was not disappointed!
On this visit I travelled to Hiva Oa in the Marquesas and Fakarava in the Tuamotus. Flying into Hiva Oa is breathtaking – it is a beautiful, lush, green, high island with a jagged coastline and crashing waves. The airport is situated on a high plateau which at times is engulfed in fog or clouds.
• Intimate Tahitian Setting •
The island road is very good from the airport to the hotel, the Hanakee Pearl Lodge, and the town of Atuona, but the final approach to the hotel is a very steep drive – something to keep in mind if you decide to go for a stroll into town. The Hanakee Pearl lodge is an intimate hotel with a wonderful setting perched on the hillside overlooking the mountains and the ocean.
Although the island road is rough and narrow, it affords spectacular views. Leave your nerves in your room and take some gravol! This is the island that Belgian singer Jacques Brel and French artist Paul Gauguin called home. In the main town of Atuona, you will find the town cemetery where both Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel are buried.
• Art, History & Culture of the Marquesas •
The Paul Gauguin centre is here as well and is a recommended stop. It is a museum dedicated to Gauguin’s art and life and there is a reproduction of Gauguin’s “House of Pleasure” on site as well. Behind these buildings you will find a building dedicated to Brel, which also holds the airplane he used to fly to Tahiti and back.
There are also several archaeological sites worth visiting on the island. The Taaoa Valley, on the west side of Atuona, has many sites one of which has been restored.
The highlight is the day excursion to Paumau. It is on the northeast of the island where there is a restored temple and ceremonial ground. This is an interesting and worthwhile excursion which includes lunch at Marie Antoinette’s, a “unique” island restaurant which serves local specialities. On the way back you will stop at a beautiful beach for a swim in warm water. As you drive around the island you will see Marquesan horses, the odd wild pig, wild goats and chickens and if you look down as the road travels high above the ocean you may be lucky enough to see schools of Manta Rays feeding in the water.
If you have the chance, go for a horseback ride with guide “Paco” on one of his small, sure-footed horses. His stable is by the airport.
The next stop for me was Fakarava in the Tuamotus. These island atolls are the oldest group of islands in the Tahitian islands - they are just a coral reef surrounding a beautiful lagoon. Fakarava is part of a Unesco designated biosphere. The water is clear and full of many types of fish, the beaches are soft and white and the sunsets are spectacular. It is a wonderfully relaxing place to visit.
• Crystal Waters of the Tuamotus •
Le Maitai Dream Fakarava is the only hotel on the island, but there are several pensions (B and B’s) and local restaurants on the island. The big draw on the Tuamotus is diving, snorkelling and fishing. There are lagoon excursions and pearl farm visits, you can rent a motor scooter or bicycle and explore the island and the little town. My favourite activity, however, is just hanging out in the lagoon with the fish or on the beach with a good book.
• Top Tips for an Unforgettable Tahiti Holiday •
#1 – Search out internet cafes – in most cases they are much cheaper than what the hotels charge. There are a few cafes in the centre of town that are very reasonable.
# 2 - When travelling to the more remote islands, be prepared for the unexpected. Some food and drink may be out of stock, so menu items may be unavailable. Everything comes by boat once or twice a week at best. Excursions are subject to the weather and water conditions and minimum number of people. It really helps to know a little French especially in the more remote areas, so bring your vocabulary book.
Tahiti is an outstanding, beautiful, safe and comfortable destination! All you need do is relax and enjoy the peace and beauty that Tahiti offers – her islands and her people.
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